Oldies but goodies

. Pastes of fruits, candied fruits, chocolates and other sugar refineries. Clermont-Ferrand, the general Council of Puy-de-Dome, 2000 ("patrimonial Notebooks of Puy-de-Dome 6"). Pastes of fruits, candied fruits, chocolates and other sugar refineries. Clermont-Ferrand, the general Council of Puy-de-Dome, 2000 ("patrimonial Notebooks of Puy-de-Dome 6"). Five chapters detail some and illustrate specificity of it. The "pastes of Auvergne", especially those based on apricots, will know a reputation growing during XVII centuries and will be always appreciated gifts: Madam of Châtelet, according to her lover, Voltaire, "likes them passionately". But until orée of the industrial era, the cane sugar remains a food product of luxury and the confectionery the prerogative of large. "sugar abundance" will start for Europe only with the exploitation of beet, consequence of the continental blockade issued by Napoleon. The sugar beet, we saw it, finds in Limagne a ground of predilection which also sees developing an industry with whole share. Lastly, the octagonal boxes of the Vichy tablets entered of appartment the imaginary collective of the consumer. At the second chapter of the catalogue, sugar is presented as a preserving ingredient and a universal condiment. Calling upon the manes of Brillat-Savarin, I Boiron draws up a historico-geographical panorama of the sugar from which the brief character does not exclude quality and clearness. Mayer presents to us the processes parallel of extraction of saccharose of the cane with sugar and of beet and introduces us into the world of biochemistry of sugars. Fascination human being for sugar has, certainly, a biological explanation, but the physiology of the sweetened taste goes well beyond the simple chemical reaction. Boiron approach, respectively, the various phases of the culture: that of the cane with sugar, then that of sugar beet. With the third chapter enter in scene the fruits to preserve or transform into jam. The country limagnais, with its variety of sunny slopes and of volcanic grounds that describes in detail A. Maillot, this happy association of the fruit tree and the confectionery supported. The regression of the vineyard during the last century then deeply upset the secular forms of production. The apricot is always with the honor in country limagnais, but it is not enough any more to satisfy the increasing request of the confectioners. Mayer make, them, to enter the reader the wide world of jam, the candied fruits and the fruit paste. The Councils of preparation alternate with the role sociohistoric that the confectionery played out of ground auvergnate: a powerful means of social rise that the vogue of hydrotherapy did nothing but reinforce. Cure at a watering-place and tearoom form a "total social fact", according to the expression of Mauss which with relevance the two authors take again. The confectionery of Auvergne is rich of good of other resources. Boiron in the chapter IV, which is that has as a raw material the chocolate, from America at the end of the XVI. The cacao-tree and its history, as well as the development process which goes from cocoa broad bean to the bar of chocolate is briefly pointed out. The chocolate in country limagnais has a name: that of the Marchioness of Sévigné that a couple of chocolate sellers of Royat, Auguste and Rouzeaud Clementine, chose in own way of sign. Other confectioneries clermontoises (Morand or Cahumière) always perpetuate the artisanal tradition of the "top-of-the-range" chocolate. The amateurs will learn that the "gold metal disc" (fool covered with a fine black chocolate film strewn with gold spangles) was created in 1898 by a confectioner of Mills. Lastly, the final chapter, "Sociology and esthetics of the confectionery limagnaise" (A. Piccand-Rimet), highlight the character symbolic system of the fruit -- that it is or not crystallized -- as a gift. Confectioneries of Auvergne invites thus to a doubly profitable reflexion which combines, according to the word of Barthes, at the same time savour and knowledge. Pastes of fruits, candied fruits, chocolates and other sugar refineries. Clermont-Ferrand, the general Council of Puy-de-Dome, 2000 ("patrimonial Notebooks of Puy-de-Dome 6").